What you put on your skin matters as much as what you eat. The skin is our largest organ and one of the most permeable — substances applied topically are absorbed into the bloodstream, and accumulate in the body over time with repeated use.
The European Union has banned over 1,300 harmful chemicals from cosmetics. The United States has banned just 11. This regulatory gap means that products freely sold in many markets contain ingredients that have been restricted or prohibited elsewhere based on their links to hormone disruption, cancer, organ toxicity and developmental harm.
As a certified health coach and clean beauty expert, becoming a conscious consumer is one of the most powerful health choices you can make. This guide is here to help you do exactly that — not to create fear, but to create knowledge. Because once you know what to look for, reading a label takes less than a minute.
The debate about long-term safety thresholds will always continue. What matters is that you are informed, empowered and able to make choices that align with your values and your health.
We update this list regularly as new research and regulatory decisions emerge.
How to use this guide
Each ingredient below includes three things:
Why we avoid it — the health concerns that have placed it on our list, including regulatory decisions from the EU, US, Canada and Japan where relevant.
How to spot it — the alternative names it appears under on product labels, because ingredient naming is deliberately complex and many harmful ingredients hide in plain sight.
A quick note on the precautionary principle: where there is genuine scientific debate about an ingredient's safety, we apply the precautionary approach — if there is credible evidence of harm and a clean alternative exists, we choose the alternative. We do not wait for absolute certainty that would take decades to establish.
The ingredients we avoid
Aluminium compounds
Why we avoid it Aluminium zirconium and related aluminium compounds are used primarily in antiperspirants. They are skin irritants with a potential link to breast cancer, strong evidence of human neurotoxicity, and have been identified as respiratory and developmental toxins. Banned in the EU.
How to spot it on labels Aluminum chloride — aluminum chlorohydrate — aluminum hydroxybromide — and any ingredient beginning with "alum" in an antiperspirant context.
Benzalkonium chloride
Why we avoid it There is moderate to strong evidence that benzalkonium chloride is an immune, skin and respiratory toxicant, with laboratory studies suggesting mutagenic (potentially carcinogenic) effects. It is a skin and eye irritant — corrosive at sufficient concentrations. Restricted in Japan and Canada.
How to spot it on labels Alkyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride — benzalkonium chloride solution — quaternary ammonium compounds — benzylcoco alkyldimethyl chlorides — ammonyx — arquad dmmcb-75 — barquat mb-50 — benirol.
Benzophenones (including oxybenzone)
Why we avoid it Benzophenones — used as UV filters in sunscreens and to stabilise fragrance — are endocrine disruptors. They mimic oestrogen in the body, have been detected in blood, urine and breast milk after topical application, and are associated with cancer, developmental and reproductive toxicity, organ system toxicity and allergic reactions including anaphylaxis in severe cases. As we discuss in our complete guide to natural sunscreen, oxybenzone is also one of the primary contributors to coral reef bleaching and has been banned in Hawaii, Palau and parts of the Caribbean for this reason. Restricted in the EU and US. (Read our complete guide to choosing a natural sunscreen here.)
How to spot it on labels Benzophenone — oxybenzone — sulisobenzone — sulisobenzone sodium — and any ingredient containing the word "benzophenone."
Coal tar and synthetic colorants
Why we avoid it Synthetic colours derived from coal tar contain heavy metal salts that deposit toxins in the skin, causing sensitivity and irritation. Experimental studies have found that topical application of coal tar produces skin tumours. Coal tar has been associated with cancers of the lung, bladder, kidney and digestive tract, and with skin cancer specifically in patients using coal-tar therapeutic preparations. Banned in the EU and Canada.
How to spot it on labels Topical coal tar solution — solubilized coal tar extract — 4-methoxy-m-phenylenediamine — 2,4-diaminoanisole — 4-chloro-m-phenylenediamine — 2,4-toluenediamine — 2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine — aminophenol — phenylenediamine — and any colour listed as FD&C or D&C followed by a colour and number.
Ethanolamine compounds (DEA, TEA, MEA)
Why we avoid it Ethanolamines may increase cancer risk with repeated and prolonged use. The World Health Organization lists certain ethanolamines as unclassified potential carcinogens. They can cause organ system toxicity and are known skin sensitisers. DEA is banned in the EU.
How to spot it on labels Triethanolamine — diethanolamine — DEA — TEA — MEA — cocamide DEA — cocamide MEA — DEA-cetyl phosphate — lauramide DEA — linoleamide MEA — myristamide DEA — oleamide DEA — stearmide MEA — TEA-lauryl sulfate.
EDTA (Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid)
Why we avoid it EDTA-containing ingredients may contain dangerous levels of 1,4-dioxane — a carcinogenic by-product of manufacturing that is frequently not disclosed on labels. EDTA is also a potent eye irritant, has been associated with contact eczema, and degrades slowly in the environment, making it an ecological concern.
How to spot it on labels Tetrasodium EDTA — disodium EDTA — calcium disodium EDTA — and any ingredient ending in "EDTA."
Formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives
Why we avoid it Formaldehyde is classified as a probable human carcinogen by the US Environmental Protection Agency. It causes allergic reactions and contact dermatitis, irritates mucous membranes, damages the eyes and has been linked to joint and chest pain, depression, headaches, fatigue, dizziness and immune dysfunction. Particularly concerning: formaldehyde is frequently not listed directly on product labels because it is released gradually by other preservative ingredients — meaning consumers are often unknowingly exposed. Banned in Japan and Sweden. Restricted in the EU and Canada.
How to spot it on labels Quaternium-15 — DMDM hydantoin — imidazolidinyl urea — diazolidinyl urea — polyoxymethylene urea — sodium hydroxyethylglycinate — 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (bromopol) — glyoxal.
Hydroquinone
Why we avoid it Hydroquinone is widely used in skin brightening and lightening products but carries significant health concerns. Long-term use is associated with contact dermatitis, decreased skin elasticity and increased photosensitivity — making the skin more vulnerable to UV damage, which is the opposite of the intended effect. It has been linked to ochronosis — a condition causing dark bluish-grey patches on the skin. Products may also contain sodium metabisulphite, which causes serious allergic reactions. Banned in the EU. Restricted in Canada and the US. Contra-indicated in pregnancy.
How to spot it on labels Hydroquinone — listed directly by this name.
Lead and mercury
Why we avoid it Mercury and mercury compounds are potent neurotoxins linked to organ toxicity, renal failure, mental dementia, developmental toxicity and muscle tremors. They accumulate in the body over time. Lead is similarly neurotoxic and developmental. Both are found in some skin lightening creams, certain cosmetics and contaminated colour pigments. Banned in Canada and the EU. The FDA advises stopping use of any product containing mercurous chloride, calomel, mercuric, mercurio or mercury immediately.
How to spot it on labels Thimerosal — mercurous chloride — calomel — mercuric — mercurio — mercury.
Methyl Cellosolve
Why we avoid it A potential neurotoxin associated with developmental toxicity, cell damage and skin irritation. Used as a solvent in some cosmetic formulations.
How to spot it on labels 2-Methoxyethanol — ethylene glycol monomethyl ether — EGME.
Methylisothiazolinone (MI/MIT) and methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI)
Why we avoid it MIT and MCI are preservatives used widely in beauty and cleaning products that have been responsible for a significant rise in contact allergies and eczema. Dermatologists have identified MIT as second only to nickel in causing contact allergies. Laboratory studies have demonstrated that brief exposure to MIT is highly toxic to cultured neurons — with one study showing significant nerve damage after just 10 minutes of exposure. There are serious concerns about the consequences of chronic exposure for the developing nervous system. The EU Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products recommended limiting MIT concentration to 0.01% (100ppm). Canada has introduced restrictions on its use.
How to spot it on labels Methylisothiazolinone — MI — MIT — methylchloroisothiazolinone — MCI — Kathon CG — and any ingredient ending in "-isothiazolinone."
Mineral oil (liquid petroleum)
Why we avoid it Mineral oil is a petroleum derivative that cannot be metabolised by the skin. It sits on the skin's surface, blocking pores and preventing the skin from breathing, sweating and functioning normally. There are concerns that commercially available mineral oil is contaminated with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) — known endocrine disruptors and carcinogens. Restricted in the EU.
How to spot it on labels Mineral oil — liquid petroleum — liquid paraffin — paraffin — paraffinum liquidum — petrolatum — deobase — heavy mineral oil — light mineral oil — paraffin oil — white mineral oil — petroleum white mineral oil.
Parabens
Why we avoid it Parabens are among the most extensively studied endocrine-disrupting chemicals in skincare. The UN Environment Programme has identified propyl- and butylparaben as endocrine-disrupting chemicals. Parabens mimic oestrogen in the body, have been found in breast cancer tissue, and are linked to hormonal disruption, reproductive toxicity and developmental concerns — particularly in prenatal and early postnatal development. They are not readily biodegradable and accumulate in both the body and the environment with repeated exposure. The EU has banned several longer-chain parabens and restricts others.
How to spot it on labels Any ingredient ending in "-paraben" — methylparaben — ethylparaben — propylparaben — butylparaben — isobutylparaben — benzylparaben — isopropylparaben.
Phthalates
Why we avoid it Phthalates are endocrine disruptors that mimic and disrupt human hormones — linked to disruption of hormonal, reproductive, immune and developmental systems. They are classified as possible carcinogens. Particularly concerning is that phthalates frequently hide inside synthetic "fragrance" (parfum) on ingredient labels — protected as trade secrets — meaning consumers cannot always identify their presence. Some forms are banned in the EU.
How to spot it on labels Phthalate — diethylphthalate (DEP) — dibutylphthalate (DBP) — dimethylphthalate (DMP) — DEHP — and the word "fragrance" or "parfum" (which may contain phthalates among hundreds of other undisclosed chemicals).
Propylene glycol (PG) and polyethylene glycol (PEG)
Why we avoid it Propylene glycol is a petrochemical skin irritant that can trigger eczema and sensitisation with repeated use. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) compounds have a penetration-enhancing effect — meaning they facilitate the absorption of other ingredients, including impurities and contaminants, more deeply into the skin. PEG compounds can be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane, a carcinogen also linked to birth defects.
How to spot it on labels Propylene glycol — PG — 1,2 dihydroxypropane — methylethylene glycol — and any ingredient beginning with "PEG-" followed by a number (PEG-7, PEG-40, PEG-80, PEG-100 etc.).
Sulphates (SLS and SLES)
Why we avoid it Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulphate (SLES) are aggressive surfactants that strip the skin and hair of their natural oils, disrupt the skin barrier and are known skin irritants and allergens. In sensitive individuals they have been shown to trigger dermatitis, urticaria and in rare cases anaphylactic reactions. SLES in particular can be contaminated with 1,4-dioxane — a carcinogen banned in Canada.
How to spot it on labels Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) — sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) — sodium caprylic sulfate — sodium capric sulfate — sodium oleic sulfate — sodium stearyl sulfate — sodium myreth sulfate — sodium dodecanesulfate — sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS).
Synthetic fragrance (parfum)
Why we avoid it The word "fragrance" or "parfum" on a product label can legally conceal a mixture of anywhere between 10 and 3,000 different chemicals — many of which have never been individually tested for safety in humans. Phthalates, hormone disruptors, allergens, neurotoxins and carcinogens can all be present under this single word. Fragrance mixes are one of the leading causes of contact dermatitis and skin sensitisation. Even in products marketed as "natural" or "clean," synthetic fragrance may be present. The EU has stricter fragrance disclosure requirements than the US but does not require full transparency.
How to spot it on labels Fragrance — parfum — aroma — and any individual synthetic fragrance chemical (hundreds exist — if you cannot identify an ingredient as a botanical extract or known safe compound, research it).
Toluene
Why we avoid it Toluene is a solvent used primarily in nail polish and nail glue. The US Environmental Protection Agency has confirmed that overexposure to toluene causes serious and potentially dangerous health effects including neurological damage and respiratory harm. It is a suspected developmental toxin.
How to spot it on labels Toluene — methylbenzene — methyl benzol — phenyl methane — tolul.
Triclosan and triclocarban
Why we avoid it Triclosan and triclocarban are antimicrobial agents that interfere with hormones critical for normal brain development and reproductive function. Animal studies have linked triclosan to lower levels of thyroid hormone and testosterone, and triclocarban to artificially amplified effects of oestrogen and testosterone — potentially promoting the growth of hormone-sensitive cancers. Both have been found in the blood and breast milk of nursing mothers and in over 75% of urine samples tested in the US population. There are also serious concerns that triclosan and triclocarban are contributing to antibiotic resistance. Banned in the EU. Restricted in Japan, Canada and the US.
How to spot it on labels Triclosan — triclocarban — 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether — 5-chloro-2-(2,4-dichlorophenoxy)phenol — irgasan — irgasan dp300.
A note on PFAS — the emerging concern
One category not on the original list but increasingly important is PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) — sometimes called "forever chemicals" because they do not break down in the body or the environment. PFAS are added to some foundations, moisturisers and waterproof cosmetics to improve texture and skin penetration. Some PFAS have hormone-disrupting properties. They can be identified on labels as any ingredient with "fluoro" in the name, or PTFE. Coop Denmark has banned all PFAS-containing cosmetics from its stores. We recommend avoiding them wherever possible.
How to become a conscious beauty consumer
Read every label. The ingredients list tells you everything. If you cannot identify an ingredient, look it up before buying.
Use resources you trust. The Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep database (ewg.org/skindeep) allows you to search any product or ingredient for its safety rating. It is free and regularly updated.
Apply the precautionary principle. If there is credible concern about an ingredient and a clean alternative exists, choose the clean alternative. You do not have to wait for absolute certainty.
Choose EU-approved products where possible. The EU has the strictest cosmetic ingredient regulations in the world — products formulated for the EU market have already passed the highest available safety standard.
Trust your skin. Persistent irritation, redness, breakouts or sensitivity after starting a new product is often a signal worth listening to.
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